Have you seen the current Leica Special Editions yet?
*note that we are currently not carrying these, but they were too awesome not to share. For more info, you can visit the Leica site here.
*note that we are currently not carrying these, but they were too awesome not to share. For more info, you can visit the Leica site here.





Product: Lightsphere II- Clear, with snap-on inverted dome
Left: direct flash, right: w/ Lightsphere II
Why not always leave the IS/VR ON? Because it doesn't always work to your advantage. If you are shooting in one of the conditions mentioned above, keep it on. If your camera is on a tripod (especially with a higher speed or using a remote release), and there isn't any vibration to reduce, the lens will still continue to look for one. In this searching process the motor inside the lens is virbrating or jiggling. Because of this, you may end up with a shaky and unsharp result.
Now, what about when the lens is not in use? There's two sides to the argument, just like most things. Some photographers recommend keeping it on, so that in a split moment you can grab the lens, not have to think about turning it on, and shoot. The other side to that is while it may take a fraction of a second longer to turn it on, and you'll need to remember to turn it on, you are better protecting the mechanics of the lens if the function is turned off when not in use. This is especially pertinent when on the move, becaue when on, the function is most vulnerable. If the lens is in your camera bag and is being jostled around, it is less likely to (simply put) brake, if the function is off.
The ring must be mounted with the small bayonet flange facing up. Be gentle, and let it click into place. If it's forced on, the only way to remove it is to cut it off. This seems to be a common problem, as we've seen many of these that have been forced on.
The Duaflex has a convex viewfinder which creates a nice edge effect
In addition to the Duaflex, you will need a digital SLR with a macro lens. A lens with an extension tube or a close up filter would also work. In order to keep most of the light out and avoid glare on the viewfinder, you will also need material to build a shade which you will shoot the viewfinder through. I used cardboard and duct tape that I spray painted black. To determine the height of the box, focus the SLR and lens you are using on the viewfinder so that it fills as much of the shot as possible and measure the distance between the SLR camera and the top of the Duaflex (or other viewfinder model).
The images have a vintage feel with the immediacy that comes with using digital technology. This technique is also nice for creating texture and a different look without using Photoshop.
Shooting "fake" TTV: You can also create this effect in Photoshop if you take one shot TTV on a white background to use as a "filter", or download a pre-made TTV filter.
Once you have the TTV image, pick any image you would like to transform.
Open both images in Photoshop. Select "all" in your TTV image and copy your selection. Now click on your regular image and paste the TTV image into this image (I resized my image to more closely match the TTV image). You will not be able to see through the pasted TTV shot until you select the layer with the TTV image and switch the drop down menu from normal to multiply. Now you can choose to manipulate the opacity until the desired effect is produced. I also selected my background layer and adjusted the brightness a little higher since the TTV layer darkened the original layer.
Either way you do it, this process produces a fun effect that is rapidly growing in popularity!
And a homemade pinhole cap (with filter glued on the front so dust would not get inside the lens mount and reach the sensor)
Shot using pinhole cap AND a fisheye adapter screwed into the filter (that's glued on the cap)
McKeown's is a massive price guide to antique and classic cameras. It covers over 40,000 cameras with over 10,000 photos. It has an easy to follow layout and covers the make & model of a camera, the approximate years of production, a bit of important history on the item, and a price range for what the item is worth, depending on its condition.
Hansen's Complete Illustrated Guide To Cameras is fully illustrated & indexed and includes detailed descriptions with listings of different versions and variations. Both volumes also include yearly production charts of 35mm cameras from 1936-2002. These books are ideal for camera stores, schools, collectors, & the photo enthusiast.
Leica postcard set- set of 8 in sepia and black & white. Reprints from 1932-57.